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Wing’s Kitchen
Flying high
BY ROB QUINTILIANI

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Finding a suitable restaurant in Chinatown can be a bit daunting after a long day. The crammed thoroughfares and blind alleyways have a pull much like the strong current ahead of a waterfall. Often the sheer number of options and the pace of the crowds make it difficult to stop and decide on a place. But heading down the stairs into Wing’s Kitchen offers instant relief from the chaos. The peacefulness of this spot, which specializes in Shanghai cuisine, provides an excellent alternative to the bustle of the area’s larger restaurants.

The décor creates an air of serenity in the quaint room, while the service completes the mood by catering with gentle sure-handedness to individual needs. Soft noodles and sweet-and-sour sauce with a subtle zing accompany many of the selections, which range from standard Chinese fare — chicken chow mein ($7.50), spring rolls ($2), veggie dumplings ($5) — to more specialized dishes like braised pig shoulder ($13.50). Portions are healthy, and the quality of the ingredients and combinations of accompanying vegetables are excellent. Soup (all priced at less than $6) is served in gigantic, handmade bowls. For a treat, ask for the house specialty ($8), which may or may not be on the menu, and you’ll get a plate lined with pork-rib chunks drenched in a spicy sauce made by the owner.

Wing’s Kitchen may not be the ideal choice for a big night out on the town, or for a first date. But it’s the kind of restaurant to include in your routine if you’re looking for pleasing Chinese food and enough private space to relax in after a hectic day. The tide waits for no one, though; eventually you’ll have to leave, sucked back into the frenetic flow of Chinatown.

Wing’s Kitchen, located at 23 Hudson Street, in Boston, is open daily, from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call (617) 338 2218.

Issue Date: August 15 - 22, 2002
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