Walking into Sorella’s, a small storefront, your eyes are immediately drawn to several blackboards advertising numerous specials. But these are dwarfed by a staggeringly vast sea of what must be hundreds of sheets of paper posted on the walls, detailing even more featured breakfast plates. Fortunately, the majority of these can be found on the menu, which leaves you wondering whether a group of Dagwood’s acolytes works here. At least 40 different kinds of omelets ($4–$7) are offered. If you’re the type of person who thinks a red-pepper-shiitake-onion omelet would benefit from, oh, a little spinach, some boursin cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, avocado, and maybe a handful of macadamia nuts, then you’re in good company. (If you’re the indecisive type, however, you might encounter some difficulty.) More restrained diners can opt for the good ol’ cheese or Western omelet, but some have upwards of 15 ingredients. At Sorella’s, more is definitely, well, more.
No less impressive, Sorella’s also offers 12 versions of French toast ($5.25), from the ever-popular challah to the more-unusual banana-bread-based variety. They’ll even jazz it up with some Grand Marnier. The usual suspects, like breakfast sandwiches and the eggs-bacon-sausage-toast combo, while unremarkable, are respectably prepared. Sorella’s home fries might not suit everyone, as the frying oil doesn’t taste quite vegetable-derived, and the ginger-blueberry-hazelnut pancakes sound like a good idea, but they’re a bit dense and overly sweet. On the other hand, the raspberry-banana-walnut pancakes ($6.95) are truly excellent, combining the warm, gooey goodness of sliced bananas with crunchy nuts and subtly acidic berries in batter that yields a crisp exterior and a light, airy interior.
Glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice sit in the fridge behind the counter, and the waitresses are quick and generous with the coffee. Sorella’s also offers lunch dishes and serves breakfast all day. While the choices abound, seating does not, so on weekends you’ll most likely find a line extending out the door. But queue up: the wait will give you more time to figure out what to order.
Sorella’s, located at 388 Centre Street, in Jamaica Plain, is open daily from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Call (617) 524-2016.