BY KATE COHEN
In a college town, we must not underestimate the importance of a good burrito. Observe the Taco Bell placed prominently next to Campus Convenience at Boston University, and Burrito Max — a fixture in Kenmore Square. Bueno Café is part of the BU–Comm Ave mix as well, but with its fresh take on classic Tex-Mex, Bueno provides something a little out of the ordinary for the swarms of BU kids who parade by its windows.
What sets Bueno apart is its atypical taquería menu, with offerings such as fresh red peppers and lemon-sautéed asparagus. The latter is grilled, then sautéed, and wrapped burrito-style with Spanish rice, black beans, lettuce, and chunky pico de gallo ($5.24). These burritos are squat and therefore difficult to eat with much grace, but everything inside is near-perfect because Bueno prepares its food according to customer specifications. The staff will even substitute yogurt for sour cream.
The tacos range from bean ($1.90) to portobello ($2.56). They are small enough to be eaten two or three to a meal, and each is given substantial helpings of lettuce, pico de gallo, Monterey jack cheese, and ranchero sauce (available mild or hot). The red-pepper quesadilla ($5.24) comes loaded with Monterey jack and divided into four wedges piled alongside heaps of pico de gallo and a side of rice or beans. The warm chips (71 cents) are a nice addition, as is the fresh salsa (71 cents), which tastes as if it had just been whipped up. Que bueno.
Bueno Café, located at 627 Comm Ave, in Boston, is open Monday through Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 6 p.m. Call (617) 266-0700.Issue Date: November 8-15, 2001
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