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[Cheap Eats]

Anchovies
A trendy treasure
BY LAURA ADAMIC

on the cheap
Yummy Hut Sabra Grill Damoah Grill Wonder Bar

If youíre out on Columbus Avenue, the neon sign doesnít try to invite you inside. And once you step indoors, there isnít a hostess waiting to greet you. You have to shuffle your way behind the line of filled barstools to find the waiting list ó but donít worry if it seems long, because a trip to Anchovies is as much about the wait as it is about the cheap Italian meal. The dim lighting makes it easy to take it all in: the neighborhood clientele, the glowing red lampshades behind the bar, old photos of Fenway Park, a stuffed sailfish, a suspended rocking horse wearing a sombrero. The funky décor ó attic chic, perhaps? ó and award-winning martinis make this restaurant a trendy destination, but its unconcerned attitude keeps it a neighborhood find.

Anchovies is worth a visit even if you donít want to eat. But if you are hungry, get ready to loosen your belt. Appetizers include a hunk of fried mozzarella ($4.95) and two sausages or meatballs ($3.95) ó meals unto themselves. Pizza comes one-size-fits-all (or at least two), with plenty of cheese ($5.95, plus $1 per topping). You can get your choice of pasta with sauce (ranging from $6.95 for garlic and olive oil to $10.95 for white clam sauce). And to round out this most basic of Italian menus, Anchovies also serves eggplant parmigiana and lasagna (both $9.95).

Anchovies, located at 433 Columbus Avenue, in Boston, is open daily from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Call (617) 266-5088.

Issue Date: October 18 - 25, 2001