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[Cheap Eats]

Three Aces Pizza


An appreciation
BY LISA GERSON

on the cheap
Real Pizza Koreana Vici Cheap Eats Sweet Creams

Itís not new, itís not particularly hip, and it hasnít undergone a trendy renovation recently. But what Three Aces has going for it is longevity. Perched on Mass Ave just north of Harvard Square, the restaurant has been in business for almost 30 years, catering to the pizza and grinder cravings of nearby Harvard students and faculty, along with neighborhood regulars. (We even know someone who had his first slice of pizza there, almost 25 years ago.) The décor, it seems, hasnít changed much in all that time: wooden booths with low-hanging red-glass chandeliers line the walls, and nearby, long benches are lined with red-leather-covered low stools. Old-school video games (even one of those table-top versions!) are front and center.

The prices are slightly retro, too: most large pizzas, with toppings ranging from hamburger to fresh spinach, are under $10. Large grinders are $5 and change: donít miss the bacon-and-egg, the eggplant-and-cheese, or the simple-but-good grilled chicken on pita. Looking for more of a meal? Try the homemade lasagna, manicotti, or ravioli (all of which come with garlic bread and salad, for about $6), or stick with a calzone ($6.55). If youíre feeling adventuresome, or particularly carnivorous, try the spaghetti or ziti " a la Three Aces " : the pasta is topped with sausage, mushroom, bacon, and ham, plus mozzarella and sauce. Kinda makes you long for the old days, when fat and cholesterol intake was not an issue!

Three Aces Pizza, located at 1613 Mass Ave, in Cambridge, is open 10:30 a.m. to midnight Monday through Saturday, and till 11 p.m. on Sunday. Call (617) 491-2884.

Issue Date: June 7-14, 2001