Here's the beef
by Andrew Weiner
Riley's Roast Beef was a long-time landmark whose fame owed less to culinary
achievement than to its late hours and proximity to Allston's "Beer Mile." It
closed recently, but some benevolent power is looking out for those starved
night owls who need a close encounter of the carnivorous kind: Riley's has been
replaced by Redneck's BBQ.
Chances are the change has gone unnoticed by at least a few of Riley's
last-call regulars. Redneck's has kept the distinctive neon signs of its
predecessor. Food-wise, too, the song remains the same: meat is what's for
dinner here. Don't bring along the special vegan in your life. The pulled-pork
sandwich ($3.99) is served up Sloppy Joe-style, slathered in a sweet, kicky
sauce. The jambalaya-gumbo soup ($2.99), while technically neither, wins points
for its plucky flavor and liberal use of okra. "Best of Show" honors go to the
corn dog ($2.99). A meal in itself, the dog stands a good three hands tall and
is massive enough to be supported by a full-size chopstick.
Redneck's unusual pay-by-the-bone rib pricing answers the question famously
posed in the movie I'm Gonna Git You Sucka: "How much for one rib?" The
answer: $1.25, and worth it. Not to be overlooked are Redneck's home-brewed
ginger ale, root beer, and watermelon sodas ($1.25/$1.99), which take the edge
off the spicier dishes and make everything go down a little easier.
Redneck's BBQ, located at 140 Brighton Avenue, in Allston, is open daily
from 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. Call (617) 254-9592.
The On the Cheap archive