Plough & Stars
Pub lunch par excellence
by John Buntin
For the past several months, Jim Seery, a long-time line cook at the Blue Room,
has been running a one-man lunch operation at the Plough & Stars, the
appealing pub between Harvard and Central Squares. This is pub food par
excellence. Fennel-crusted pork with mashed red potatoes and sautéed
green beans ($7) is perfect comfort food for a melancholy winter day, and a
typical Seery dish. And where else in Cambridge can you find baked haddock with
saffron risotto for $7?
Unfortunately, if you don't eat meat you can't share in the fun. Pasta
primavera, that hoary fallback for a chef confronting a vegetarian, is a real
step down from the squid and shrimp on linguine ($7). The mesclun salad and the
soup of the day, however, can offer an out.
The Plough & Stars' menu changes at least every other day, with one
constant: the Cuban sandwich ($7). "It's the best Cuban sandwich you've ever
had," my waitress declared with supreme confidence. In my case, she was right.
The thick sourdough crust was a bit unorthodox (and might have benefited from a
little more time in the plancha), but the overall effect of the roasted
pork, ham, and pickles was delicious. Pretty good for 1500 miles north of
The Plough & Stars, located at 912 Mass Ave, in Cambridge, serves lunch
Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Call (617)
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