Campo de Fiori
Pizza my heart
by Rob McKeown
Tucked inside Harvard Square's mini-mallish Holyoke Street Arcade, Campo de
Fiori is an Italian takeout counter with a half-dozen scattered tables and a
cultlike following. The cult has arisen around pane romano, a street-food
staple from Rome that consists of a sweetish dough, patted out by hand and
cooked to a state of cracker-crunchiness in seething-hot ovens.
Here the pane comes one of two ways: topped pizza-style ("pane"), or used as a
sandwich bread ("panini"). Both of them are no-lose propositions. Among the
pizzas, "Trastevere" is a lush, mildly sweet communion of chunky potato, opaque
prosciutto cotto, and rosemary ($4 large, $3.50 small). "Attilio" ($4.50 for a
large) is an earthier concoction of gorgonzola, mushrooms, raisins, and pine
nuts. For people looking for something a touch more . . . vanilla,
there's always the stunning austerity of the margherita ($4 for a large), which
is simply red sauce and mozzarella.
Because of the delicacy of the pane romano, the sandwiches at Campo de Fiori
come off tasting unusually light. The "Siena" ($4.50) is classically
less-is-more: tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella. A daily special ($4.50) brought
goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, and roasted red peppers together -- a
cliché, maybe, but a delicious one. For anyone still hungry at meal's
end, there's also an Italian rendition of the doughnut called ciambella ($1).
It's stupendously sugary and light as air.
Campo de Fiori, located in the Holyoke Street Arcade of Harvard Square, is
open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Call (617)
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