The Boston Phoenix
August 5 - 12, 1999

[Food Reviews]

| by restaurant | by cuisine | by location | hot links | food home |
| dining out archive | on the cheap archive | noshing & sipping archive | uncorked archive |

Love Bagel, Love Bread

More bang-bang for your buck

by Frank Habit

If your love life's a mess, don't worry. Have a bagel.

Advice from a Jewish grandma? No: from an Australian aborigine with a background in neurosurgery. Chief Dr. Roberts, founder of an offbeat Malden bakery and café called Love Bagel, Love Bread, has based his recipes on the nutritional practices of his tribe, which consumes "fruits, nuts, and grains in specific combinations that trigger different chemical reactions in the brain."

Love Bagel Love Bread Though Love Bagel sells quirky, low-priced (under $5) versions of the usual salads and sandwiches, the focus is on the baked goods, especially the heart-shaped "love bagels." The shape, says the menu, came to Roberts "in a vision from God after a near-death experience"; the central hole signifies that "we have a hole in our hearts until it is filled with love." Purists of the lox-and-schmear-only school should look elsewhere, as these are closer in taste to stollen or coffeecake than to a traditional bagel. Each of the 14 varieties is formulated to encourage effects ranging from better concentration (the "College") to a curbed appetite and weight loss (the "Foodless"). Most intriguing: the onomatopoeically named "Bang Bang," which gives extra oomph to your . . . uh . . . well, let's just say that it sure tastes better than Viagra.

Plain bagels are 63 cents each; half-dozen bags run $3.33 to $6.95. Choose with care: giving your sweetie a basket of heart-shaped "Bang Bang" bagels could send an unfortunate mixed message.

Love Bagel, Love Bread, located at 95 Pleasant Street in Malden (near the Malden Center Orange Line station), is open Monday through Saturday from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. Call (781) 324-3883.

The On the Cheap archive