Sometimes you gotta have the big bowl
by Liz Zack
Believe it or not, the Newbury Street crowd doesn't come to Men Tei to be seen
-- it actually comes to eat.
Just off Newbury itself, Men Tei, which translates literally to "noodle shop,"
doesn't feel as exclusive as its neighbors. If it weren't for the parking
hassles, you'd hardly guess you were in the same area: people come in casual
garb, stowing their Armani shopping bags under the red vinyl seats. True to the
name, much of Men Tei's menu consists of big-bowl noodle dishes, but it's worth
delaying the main course for the starters. In seaweed salad ($3.75), thin
slivers of seaweed, dark and light green, were tossed with a nutty sesame oil
and topped with toasted seeds; the shumai ($3.95), dumplings with a smooth
shrimp filling, were also tasty.
The noodle bowls that come next (things really fly out of the kitchen here)
made me wish I had skipped lunch. They're huge, and not with filler. We were
constantly amazed at how much chicken kept surfacing in the broth of the
fried-chicken ramen ($6.95). Likewise, the thinly sliced pork in the miso
noodle soup ($6.95) kept appearing amid the scallions and bean sprouts,
although the delicate flavor of the miso broth did get lost in the shuffle. Two
tips before you embark on a Men Tei meal: fast beforehand. And take the T.
Men Tei is located at 66 Hereford Street in Boston. It's open Monday
through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 9
p.m. Call (617) 425-0066.
The On the Cheap archive