The Squealing Pig
Deliverance (from sterile food)
by Melinda and John Buntin
The Squealing Pig is a true Boston amalgam: an Irish bar with the menu and
gleaming open kitchen of a trendy restaurant. In an area where art students and
MDs alike are forced to subsist largely on cafeteria food, its gourmet bar menu
is the perfect antidote to Longwood Avenue's antiseptic atmosphere. Sandwiches
are the highlight. The pressed bacon and blue cheese sandwich ($5.95) and the
pressed sharp cheddar and tomato sandwich ($5.95) are the apotheosis of that
familiar comfort food, the grilled cheese. More-adventuresome eaters should try
the fried oyster sandwich, an impressive pile of oysters served with spinach
slaw and a tangy tartar sauce ($6.95), or the mysterious quesadilla ($4.95),
the precise contents of which are always a surprise. The oversized sandwiches
all include a serving of new-potato salad (which is enlivened by carrots,
spinach, and an assertive whole-grain mustard dressing). Or you can drop an
extra dollar for a heap of crispy brown fries.
"The Pig" has Guinness and Harp on tap, of course, and a decent selection of
English beers as well. And despite its gourmet aspirations, you'd never mistake
the laconic Irish waitresses for overly friendly modern "servers." They take
your order and promptly disappear (back to the Auld Sod for that beer?). Then
again, it's the Pig's undeniable quirks that give it much of its charm.
The Squealing Pig, located at 134 Smith Street (off Huntington Avenue), in
Boston, is open daily from 10 a.m. to midnight. Call (617) 566-6651.
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