Rolling out of bed and into line in JP
On the Cheap by Liz Zack
There's no sign on the awning above the door, and if you try to find
Güldies in the phone book -- well, it's unlisted. You'll know the place by
the line that winds down the Centre Street sidewalk every Sunday morning. This
elusive Jamaica Plain eatery is perfect for brunch lovers, and by
10:30 a.m. it's packed. Some people sit and read the paper by themselves;
at other tables, couples in sweatpants whisper about their Saturday night over
coffee and hash browns.
Bob, the host, has been at Güldies since it opened, and constantly
apprises you of your progress through the waiting list. When your table is
ready, he leads you swiftly from the sidewalk into a long coral-colored room
adorned with black-and-white photos of yesteryear JP. If you don't mind waiting
a little longer, request a sun-drenched table in the back.
Then begins the eating. French toast ($4.59) buries thick slices of
cinnamon bread in a shower of shaved almonds and powdered sugar. Omelets come
any way you like them. We sampled one with tomato, spinach, and kielbasa; it
was packed with goods, thick and delicious, for $6.99. A word of warning: when
Güldies gets busy the service can be slow, so bring a paper or a sociable
brunch partner and don't be afraid to request things many times.
Güldies, located at 711 Centre Street, in Jamaica Plain, is
open Monday through Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., and Saturday
and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m., depending on the crowd.
Call (617) 983-3137.
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