The Boston Phoenix
December 17 - 24, 1998

[Food Reviews]

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A low-key pizzeria on a high-toned street

On the Cheap by Jason Weinzimer

Visitors to the South End's "restaurant row" might be surprised to find what looks like a typical neighborhood pizzeria among Tremont Street's trendy cafés and bistros. Frequented by both neighborhood types and visitors to the Boston Center for the Arts (across the street), Emilio's has become a local favorite for its remarkably solid versions of standard pizzeria takeout food.

The pizza ($4.25 for a small plain, $7.25 for a large plain) has tangy sauce and a fine, salty crust that somehow stays crisp even under mushrooms and onions. Chicken and veal grinders ($4.25) contain thick cutlets that don't taste overfried, and the classic sausage sub ($4.75) is kicked up by the substitution of linguiça, the garlicky red sausage native to Portugal, which is thinly sliced and served on an Italian roll with red sauce.

Though the staff can seem harried behind the counter, finding a table is downright easy -- and the long, narrow floor plan means nearly everyone gets a window seat. Though the view is mostly of the soon-to-be-developed BCA parking lot, it can still be fun on a busy Saturday to relax with your perfectly respectable $2 cappuccino and watch the world go by.

Emilio's, located at 536 Tremont Street, in Boston, is open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Call (617) 423-4083.

The On the Cheap archive