A low-key pizzeria on a high-toned street
On the Cheap by Jason Weinzimer
Visitors to the South End's "restaurant row" might be surprised to find what
looks like a typical neighborhood pizzeria among Tremont Street's trendy
cafés and bistros. Frequented by both neighborhood types and visitors to
the Boston Center for the Arts (across the street), Emilio's has become a local
favorite for its remarkably solid versions of standard pizzeria takeout
The pizza ($4.25 for a small plain, $7.25 for a large plain) has tangy
sauce and a fine, salty crust that somehow stays crisp even under mushrooms and
onions. Chicken and veal grinders ($4.25) contain thick cutlets that don't
taste overfried, and the classic sausage sub ($4.75) is kicked up by the
substitution of linguiça, the garlicky red sausage native to Portugal,
which is thinly sliced and served on an Italian roll with red sauce.
Though the staff can seem harried behind the counter, finding a table is
downright easy -- and the long, narrow floor plan means nearly everyone gets a
window seat. Though the view is mostly of the soon-to-be-developed BCA parking
lot, it can still be fun on a busy Saturday to relax with your perfectly
respectable $2 cappuccino and watch the world go by.
Emilio's, located at 536 Tremont Street, in Boston, is open daily
from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Call (617) 423-4083.
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