The subversive sandwich
On the Cheap by Jason Weinzimer
Some people consider Latino food one of the world's great healthy cuisines,
chock full of lime-marinated, bean-accompanied, fire-grilled goodness. Those
people have never had a Cubano.
Montrose Spa, a takeout/convenience store on the funky stretch of Mass Ave
between Harvard and Porter Squares, turns out a version of this pork-lover's
sandwich fine enough to induce a food coma. Montrose offers several delicious
deli sandwiches, but this Cubano is the real thing, a combination of bread,
peppery roast pork, ham, cheese, and mustard, transformed by a hot-sandwich
press into a crispy, gooey, nearly molten, and entirely decadent creation. It's
almost buttery. You will need a nap afterward.
Montrose offers its sizable Cubano for a mere $3.95, with plantain chips
available for 59 cents. For the non-hardcore, it's still a great place for a
fresh, flavorful $1 cup of coffee -- you'll learn immediately why not everyone
in the neighborhood goes to Starbucks. Is the Cubano's newfound popularity a
Castro plot to ruin the capitalistas through cholesterol? Ponder the
possibility at one of the sidewalk tables, watch the world saunter by, and plan
Montrose Spa, located at 1646 Mass Ave, in Cambridge, is open daily from
7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Call (617)547-5053.
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