by Danielle Svetcov
Fill-a-Buster, a greasy spoon across from the State House, may have
Greek origins, but the gems here are all-American. The banana and apple muffins
(90 cents), baked fresh daily, are so moist and sugary they need plastic wrap
to hold together. Later in the day, Hill denizens pop into the bedroom-size
eatery to see if any bread or rice pudding ($1), served in plastic cups, is
left from the morning run.
George Grigas took over the twentysomething-year-old establishment less than a
year ago. He has no idea where the restaurant's name comes from, but he's
keeping it, along with recipes that were passed down. If not all of those
recipes are worth holding onto, there's still the spinach pie ($5.25), made
with phyllo dough and generously stuffed with sautéed greens and cheese,
and the crispy falafel ($4.75), with baba ghanoosh that tastes like tartar
sauce. (Not exactly authentic baba ghanoosh, but it tastes good.) The fresh
turkey-breast sandwich ($3.75) is a refreshing break from the processed
turkey-roll version foisted upon deli customers elsewhere. Rumor has it that
Governor Weld used to come here for the cheeseburger and fries ($3.60).
Take-out is advised, as the décor runs toward orange stools, card
tables, and yellowing photographs of souvlaki and pita.
Fill-a-Buster, located at 142 Bowdoin Street, in Boston, is open Monday
through Friday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Call (617) 523-8164.