The Boston Phoenix
September 25 - October 2, 1997

[Food Reviews]

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by Danielle Svetcov

Fill-a-Buster, a greasy spoon across from the State House, may have Greek origins, but the gems here are all-American. The banana and apple muffins (90 cents), baked fresh daily, are so moist and sugary they need plastic wrap to hold together. Later in the day, Hill denizens pop into the bedroom-size eatery to see if any bread or rice pudding ($1), served in plastic cups, is left from the morning run.

George Grigas took over the twentysomething-year-old establishment less than a year ago. He has no idea where the restaurant's name comes from, but he's keeping it, along with recipes that were passed down. If not all of those recipes are worth holding onto, there's still the spinach pie ($5.25), made with phyllo dough and generously stuffed with sautéed greens and cheese, and the crispy falafel ($4.75), with baba ghanoosh that tastes like tartar sauce. (Not exactly authentic baba ghanoosh, but it tastes good.) The fresh turkey-breast sandwich ($3.75) is a refreshing break from the processed turkey-roll version foisted upon deli customers elsewhere. Rumor has it that Governor Weld used to come here for the cheeseburger and fries ($3.60). Take-out is advised, as the décor runs toward orange stools, card tables, and yellowing photographs of souvlaki and pita.

Fill-a-Buster, located at 142 Bowdoin Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Call (617) 523-8164.


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