The Boston Phoenix
September 11 - 18, 1997

[Food Reviews]

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by Nancy Kalajian

Located right across from the Porter Exchange building, Marcella's is a stylish little Italian place with a takeout counter and a handful of two-person tables. Back when it first opened, the kitchen generated such delicious smells that the neighbors actually complained. Maybe they were jealous. Those who venture in can make a filling meal out of Marcella's hearty focaccia pizzas, made fresh daily, which cost about $5 each. The toppings include such irresistible combos as sun-dried tomatoes and pecorino Romano cheese; pesto with black olives; and rosemary with herbs and red onions.

Also on the menu: fresh salads, rotisserie-cooked chicken and turkey, roasted potatoes, and more than 20 pleasing sandwiches, including Marcella's Classico -- capocollo, provolone, Italian sweet peppers, onions, lettuce, and Balsoro dressing on focaccia ($5.75 for a full sandwich, or $3.25 for the "piccolo" version, available weekdays until 3 p.m.). Bring your own coffee cup and you'll get a 25 percent discount on coffee to go. Plenty of reasonably priced breads and desserts are available, too.

Marcella's, located at 1808 Mass Ave (Porter Square), in Cambridge, is open daily from 6 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Call (617) 547-5000.


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