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Take it from a native Philadelphian -- this tiny Cambridgeport eatery serves up the best cheesesteak Boston has to offer. Unfortunately, Stefani still insists on calling it a "steak and cheese," but after tasting the lightly toasted roll, perfectly seasoned steak, and tasty fried onions, I was almost willing to forgive the misnomer.

Beyond cheesesteaks ($3.85 to $5.15), this South Philly-style pizzeria offers calzones ($5 to $6) and pizzas ($3.80 to $12.75). Both are a cut above those at most take-outs, largely because of the homemade dough that's baked to order. It's still a bit gooey inside, with a hint of crispiness on the surface -- left in the oven for just the right amount of time.

Food at Stefani also includes some Middle Eastern and Greek fare: various sandwiches on Syrian bread ($3.50 to $5), a funky gyro pizza with feta and lamb ($6.30; $9.70), and baklava, a sweet butter-and-honey-drenched phyllo pastry that's popular in Greece and Turkey.

Stefani, located at 263 Brookline Street, Cambridge, is open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and on Sundays from noon to 10 p.m. Delivery is free. Call 547-4588.

-- Theresa Regli

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