Despite its growing popularity as weekend brunch fare, dim sum is still
not for the faint of heart. In an atmosphere verging on the chaotic, carts
rocket by carrying delicious-smelling, unidentified dishes. The women who pilot
dim sum carts shout cheerfully over the crowd, often identifying exotic dishes
simply as "dumpling" or "pork ball." Sometimes it seems purely a matter of
chance whether you end up with something you like.
Still, our leap of faith was rewarded at China Pearl on a bustling Saturday
afternoon. Every dish we tried, from tofu fried with shrimp to
unpromising-looking meatballs, was a success. Prices per dish run from $1.95 to
$4.75; a good meal for two can easily be had for $15.
China Pearl is located at 9 Tyler Street, in Chinatown. Dim sum is served
every day from 8:30 a.m. until 3 p.m. Call 426-4338.
-- Sarah Lydon