A bakery blooms on Washington Street
by Rob McKeown
Thereís a homey vibe at Flour, the new home of former
Mistral pastry chef Joanne Chang: the walls are blue, the newspapers are neatly
folded, and the dayís weather forecast is written on a chalkboard. A cross
section of the South End neighborhood ó gay and straight, artsy and not ó has
already started rolling in for lunch, snacks, and desserts.
Itís a sweet deal, as it were. Bakery sandwiches usually
suffer from heavy-handedness, but here a roast chicken breast is moist and
downright sprightly when smeared with chipotle-avocado mayo ($6.50). Sopressata
($6.50), a garlicky Tuscan salami, is paired sweetly with prosciutto and
provolone. You can eat light ó say,
with a toasty corn-and-tortilla soup ($2.95) ó but itís hard to resist a quiche
with ham, gruyŤre cheese, and a crust that doesnít fight back.
The sweets arenít easy to stay away from either. Meringue
clouds ($1.50) are wondrously light and sugary; double-chocolate cookies ($1.50)
and brownies ($1.50) are downright sexy. If Flour has any failing, itís that the
sweets, muffins, and pastries are too small. But thatís just an excuse to have
Flour Bakery, located
at 1595 Washington Street, in Boston, is open Monday through Saturday from 7
a.m. to 7 p.m. Call (617) 267-4300.
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