The vegan-industrial complex
by Sarah Lariviere
What is it with metal wallpaper in Davis Square? The industrial-chic look
started at Joshua Tree and spread to Diesel Café, the Aquarium, and now
the neighborhood's newest addition: Celia's Fresh Market and Deli. At Celia's,
the copper paneling is softened by yellow walls and some photos, giving a
little warmth to this ambitious health-food store and café.
Although Celia's does serve roast beef and chicken, what's distinctive is the
wide selection of vegan food. Beyond deli sandwiches, there's a case of side
dishes and salads, and some groceries of the unhydrogenated sort. Celia herself
offers free samples at the counter, which is good, because at this stage of the
game you may want to be a little choosy. We found the Cajun grilled tofu too
watery, and the quinoa in the quinoa salad not quite cooked. The BLT, though,
is a hit, with awesome wide strips of lean bacon and a giant mayonnaisey piece
of romaine lettuce smooshed up against the secret ingredient -- avocado! -- on
Despite some shakiness, Celia's has promise -- it's intriguing and friendly,
and it stocks seaweed. You can sit at tables, or on stools at the sleek black
lunch-counter-from-outer-space. And the food should be able to hold its own
once the cooks warm up and get some feedback from the neighborhood.
Celia's Fresh Market and Deli, located at 236 Elm Street, in Somerville, is
open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sunday from
11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Call (617) 591-1922.
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